Hangin' 10

Our original weekend plans to head to the Waitomo Caves were cancelled on Thursday when one of Cory’s co-workers suggested we come up to Whangamata and spend the weekend with he and his family. We jumped at the chance, knowing we could go to Waitomo any weekend. The other big draw was this: Jason had offered to give us a little surfing lesson!

Being from Iowa, where there is no ocean (and where the distance to travel makes access fairly difficult), neither Cory and I have surfed. In fact, we really haven’t spent a whole lot of time playing/swimming/anything in the ocean. The few trips we’ve taken to places like Hawaii and Florida seemed to have come at times when the ocean water was chilly and laying on the beach seemed much more appealing. So, waves, really, are new to us.

How sad that sounds, though it may help make the images I’ll try to describe in the next few paragraphs much more accurate…

Our first task was to gear up. We headed to the local surf shop on the main street. Upon stepping over the threshold, I’m sure I looked out of my element. The small store was jammed full of boards, wetsuits, and clothing brands I’ve never worn. The walls were plastered with posters of surfers, snowboarders, and skaters. The guy behind the counter was bronzed, blonde, and salt-worn. And I had no idea how to even begin to ask for a surf board.

There are long boards and short boards and mini-mals (and probably others I don’t know yet). The long board is the easiest to stand up on, so Jason got us 9’ boards, which is probably as long as they come. Because the water is still a little chilly this time of year, most people are still in full-body wetsuits. Jason had a loaner for me and Cory rented one.

We then walked ourselves and our boards down to the beach while Jason drove the car down to a parking area. (We didn’t have any way to get the boards in or on the car – that is how big they were!) Carrying my board was in itself a challenge. If I tucked it under my arm, I could just barely wrap my fingers around the edge. And while it wasn’t really heavy, the length was awkward. I’m sure I looked hilarious, the board see-sawing as I walked, stopping every now and then to hike it back up near my hip and re-grip with my fingertips.

I was really glad to make it to our destination and set the board down, allowing my fingers to un-cramp. But then we had to get into our wetsuits, which was another first for both of us. I knew wetsuits were supposed to be form-fitting, but watching other people slip into them never seemed to illustrate just how form-fitting they are! I wish I could have watched Cory and I as we tugged and hiked and, occasionally, flailed, trying to wriggle our way in. Mine was short-sleeved and short-legged, so I had it easy really. At a couple points, Jason had to help Cory hike things up. Cory has clearly never put on pantyhose, as he was at a loss as to how he’d get his suit up his legs, trying to pull them on like pants. (I suppose him not having put on pantyhose before is an okay thing when you consider it.)

Anyway, we finally got into our suits, probably much to the disappointment of the family a short distance behind us. Cory actually looked sort of sleek and sporty, much like some sort of aquatic super hero. I’m pretty sure that wasn’t the look I had going on, but, luckily, there were no mirrors to confirm this.

Our first instruction was on land. Jason showed us about where to position on body on the board when laying on it. Then we practiced getting to our feet. In theory, one can sort of push up with the arms and then jump the feet into position. You can also pop into a kneeling position, with one knee up and one knee on the board, and then rise to a standing position from there. We practiced this a few times, and really, on land, I am not bad. Turns out adding water does add to the challenge. But I don’t want to get ahead of myself…

We strapped the boards to our ankles and strode bravely into the waves. Once it was deep enough, we set the boards down. There was even a lesson to learn here; as a wave comes at you, you tip the front of your board up, so that the board slides up over the wave. If you should forget to do this, the water pushes the board back toward shore, dragging you, attached by the leg strap, back with it.

We went out a short distance from the shore, maybe 150 feet. The water was only up to my chest, which meant I could jump up and lay on the board pretty easily. For the first few waves, we were only going to ride in towards shore, so we could learn to feel when the wave caught our board. Jason reminded me where to position my body and then, laying on the board, told me when to start paddling. I paddled, hardly moving a foot before the wave caught me up and rushed me to shore.

I know we were in shallow water, but it was pretty breathtaking when you could feel the wave lift your board and you found yourself racing towards the shore. I rolled off my board as I got to the shallow water, laughing and hooting.

After a few more rides in, Jason said it was time to actually try to stand up and “surf”. (Again, I use the term loosely.) So I hopped on my board and waited for his command to paddle. As the wave picked me up, I promptly forgot all early practice and used my new-found geriatric version, scooting myself up onto both knees. This puts you in sort of an awkward position, as you’ve now lifted your center of gravity away from the board yet not moved to the more flexible position on your feet. May be why no one does this…

A couple more attempts, though, and both Cory and I were to our feet. He got up first and actually managed to ride in a ways. The first time I got up, I promptly fell off. For the next hour or so, Jason bounced between the two of us, offering advice, answering questions, and shouting encouragements.

He also doled out helpful tips, like how to fall properly. You need to make sure and kick your board towards shore and push your body back into the wave, away from shore, so that you don’t end up with your board behind you, battering you into the sand.

I certainly don’t want to discourage Jason from continuing on his orthopaedic career, but he probably could make it as a surf instructor. He is a really good teacher and remarkably patient, even with two landlubbers from Iowa.